In the ancient capital of Nanjing, nestled along the banks of the Qinhuai River, there is a humble snack that carries the weight of dreams, determination, and a mother’s love. Known as Zhuangyuan Dou (状元豆) – or “Scholar’s Beans” – this glossy, deep burgundy snack is one of the city’s most beloved culinary treasures. It is a proud member of the famed “Eight Delicacies of Qinhuai” (秦淮八绝), a collection of Nanjing’s most iconic street foods. But more than just a tasty treat, these beans are a symbol of hope, a taste of history, and a beloved ritual for students facing life’s biggest exams.
A Mother’s Love, A Scholar’s Dream
The story of Zhuangyuan Dou begins in the mid-18th century, during the reign of the Qianlong Emperor of the Qing dynasty. In a narrow alley near Jinshajing in the old south of Nanjing lived a poor scholar named Qin Dashi (秦大士). Though his family was poor, Qin was determined to succeed. He studied tirelessly, often reading late into the night with nothing to eat.
Watching her son grow thin and exhausted, Qin’s mother devised a simple but heartfelt way to nourish him. She would take dried soybeans, cook them slowly with red yeast rice (hongqu mi) and red dates (hongzao), and place them in a small bowl with a single red date on top. She would hand him the bowl and urge him: “Study hard, and one day you will become a *zhuangyuan* – the top scholar in the empire.”
Years later, in 1752, Qin Dashi’s hard work paid off. He sat for the imperial examinations in Nanjing’s Jiangnan Gongyuan (江南贡院) – the largest examination hall in imperial China – and emerged as the top scholar of the realm. He was awarded the title of zhuangyuan, the highest honour a scholar could achieve. The alley where he had lived became known as “Qin Zhuangyuan Lane” (秦状元巷), and the beans his mother had made for him became known as Zhuangyuan Dou – “Scholar’s Beans”.
From a Mother’s Kitchen to a City’s Symbol
Word of the beans and their lucky origin spread quickly. Enterprising vendors near the Jiangnan Gongyuan began selling similar beans to exam candidates, calling out a cheerful slogan: “Eat Zhuangyuan Dou, and you’ll become a Zhuangyuan!” (吃了状元豆，好中状元郎). The snack became a beloved tradition – a small, edible blessing for students hoping to pass their exams.
What Makes Them So Special?
At first glance, Zhuangyuan Dou look simple. But they are the result of careful craftsmanship. High-quality soybeans are soaked overnight until plump and tender. They are then simmered slowly – sometimes for hours – in a savoury-sweet broth made with soy sauce, sugar, and spices like star anise and cinnamon. Red yeast rice and red dates are added, giving the beans their signature deep reddish-brown colour.
When done right, the beans are tender yet chewy, with a complex flavour that balances savoury, sweet, and aromatic notes. They are often sold alongside five-spice eggs (五香蛋) – hard-boiled eggs braised in the same fragrant broth. Together, they make the perfect portable snack for students on the go.
A Taste of Nanjing’s Exam Culture
Jiangnan Gongyuan, where Qin Dashi once took his exams, was once the largest imperial examination centre in China, with over 20,000 examination cells. Every three years, thousands of candidates would descend on Nanjing, hoping to change their fortunes. For these young men – many of whom had travelled for months – Zhuangyuan Dou was more than just a snack. It was a talisman of good luck, a small reminder that even the humblest beginnings could lead to greatness.
Where to Find It Today
Today, Zhuangyuan Dou remains a staple of Nanjing’s snack scene, particularly in the bustling Confucius Temple (夫子庙, Fuzi Miao) area. Visitors can find them at century-old establishments like Qifangge (奇芳阁), a time-honoured restaurant near Gongyuan West Street that has been serving Qinhuai snacks for generations. The beans are also available at Lüliuju (绿柳居) and other well-known Nanjing food shops. You’ll often see them sold alongside five-spice eggs in small paper bags – the perfect souvenir or snack to enjoy while strolling along the Qinhuai River.
Beyond the Snack: A Symbol of Hope
What makes Zhuangyuan Dou truly special is not just its flavour, but what it represents. In a city that was once the heart of China’s imperial examination system, these beans are a tangible link to a bygone era – a time when a single examination could change a family’s fortunes forever. They are a reminder of the power of perseverance, the sacrifice of a parent, and the shared dreams of generations of students.
Today, even in an age of modern universities and digital exams, Nanjing students still seek out these beans before important tests. And tourists from around the world – drawn by the story as much as the taste – line up to buy a bag, hoping to carry a little bit of that scholarly luck home with them.
A Simple Recipe to Try at Home
If you’d like to taste a piece of Nanjing’s history in your own kitchen, here’s a simplified version:
Ingredients: 500g dried soybeans, 2 star anise, 1 small cinnamon stick, 2 bay leaves, 5–6 red dates, a pinch of red yeast rice (for colour), 3 tbsp light soy sauce, 1 tbsp dark soy sauce, 15g rock sugar, and salt to taste.
- Soak the soybeans overnight until fully plump.
- Blanch the beans in boiling water for 3 minutes to remove any raw flavour, then drain.
- In a pot, combine the beans with enough water to cover, and add the spices, red dates, red yeast rice, soy sauces, and sugar.
- Bring to a boil, then reduce to a low simmer and cook for 40–60 minutes, until the beans are tender but still hold their shape.
- Let the beans cool in the broth to absorb maximum flavour before serving.
A Bite of History
Zhuangyuan Dou may be small, but it carries a story that spans centuries. It is the taste of a mother’s love, the flavour of a scholar’s perseverance, and the spirit of a city that has always believed in the power of education. As the old vendors used to call out: “Eat Zhuangyuan Dou, and good fortune will find you!” Whether you’re a student facing an exam, a traveller exploring Nanjing, or simply someone who appreciates a good story with a good snack, these beans offer a taste of something truly special – a little piece of Chinese history, one bite at a time.
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