When talking about iconic street food from Xi’an, a historic city in China’s Shaanxi Province, beef and lamb paomo (pita bread soaked in meat soup, or shredded pancakes in mutton soup) always tops the list. Honored as “the No.1 delicacy of Shaanxi”, this traditional halal snack boasts a long history spanning over 3,000 years and carries profound Chinese culinary and cultural heritage.
The origin of paomo can be traced back to the Western Zhou Dynasty (1046–771 BC). Back then, beef and lamb broth, the prototype of modern paomo, was served as a noble ritual dish for royal families and feudal lords. Historical records in Records of the Grand Historian also document the popularity of ancient meat broth, proving that this classic delicacy has been cherished by Chinese people for millennia.
What makes paomo extraordinary is its unique cooking and dining etiquette, which turns a simple bowl of soup and bread into an immersive culinary experience. Unlike ordinary fast food, enjoying paomo requires diners’ participation. The authentic way starts with tearing the unleavened flat bread by hand. Locals have a strict trick: split the round bread into four pieces, peel each piece into two layers, and finally tear them into pea-sized crumbs. Tiny bread crumbs can fully absorb the rich broth and spices, delivering a rich, flavorful bite. Machine-shredded bread is available in some restaurants, but true Xi’an locals always prefer hand-teared crumbs for a better taste and texture.
Professional chefs cook the prepared bread crumbs with carefully blended seasonings and fresh beef or lamb broth over high heat. Based on different broth ratios and cooking methods, paomo has four classic styles: Danzou (单走, dry bread with separate soup), Shuiweicheng (水围城, broth surrounding the bread), Koutang (口汤, little leftover soup) and Ganlao (干捞, dry stewed paomo).
There is also a time-honored custom for eating paomo. Diners are supposed to savor it slowly from one side rather than stirring randomly. This method keeps the bread crumbs soaked evenly in the broth all the time, maintaining a consistent fresh and savory flavor until the last bite. To balance the richness, pair paomo with a small amount of local chili sauce and sweet pickled garlic. A sip of pure warm broth halfway through the meal refreshes the palate perfectly.
A beloved folk legend further enriches paomo’s cultural charm, linking it to Emperor Zhao Kuangyin, the founder of the Song Dynasty. In his early years, Zhao Kuangyin lived in poverty and wandered in Chang’an (ancient Xi’an). On a cold, hungry day, he begged a local beef and lamb soup shop for a bowl of broth to soak his dry bread. The simple meal relieved his hunger and cold completely.
Ten years later, Zhao Kuangyin ascended the throne as emperor. During an inspection tour of Chang’an, he returned to the same shop and ordered his favorite meat soup paomo. The shop owner quickly prepared a delicate bowl with finely torn bread, premium seasonings and thick slices of fresh lamb. The emperor was extremely satisfied with the taste and rewarded the owner generously. The story spread rapidly across the city, making lamb paomo a trendy delicacy among locals. As more customers came, shop staff could no longer tear bread for everyone, and the custom of diners tearing bread by themselves has been passed down to this day.
Paomo’s prosperity continued through the dynasties. In 1644, Laomajia, a specialized paomo restaurant, opened its doors at Qiaozikou in Xi’an and quickly became a famous local eatery with endless customers. In 1900, the Empress Dowager Cixi took refuge in Xi’an when the Eight-Nation Alliance marched on Beijing, she visited the restaurant and praised its paomo highly, bestowing the name “Tianci Lou” (天赐楼, Building of Heavenly Gift). Since then, the restaurant and its signature paomo gained nationwide fame.
Famous for tender meat, thick aromatic broth and mellow flavor, authentic Xi’an paomo is a nourishing high-energy food rich in protein and carbohydrates. Suitable for all seasons, it tastes especially comforting in cold winters. After finishing the paomo, a small bowl of pure original broth leaves a lingering fragrance on the tongue, offering an unforgettable taste of traditional Shaanxi cuisine.
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