If there is one Chinese snack that surprises and captivates foreigners the most, it must be stinky tofu. Infamously pungent in smell yet incredibly savory in taste, this unique treat boasts over 300 years of history and a fascinating origin story full of serendipity. In traditional Chinese culinary circles, it is elegantly named”Green Square” (Qingfang) – a refined title that perfectly matches its neat square shape and emerald-green hue.
The birth of stinky tofu dates back to the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty, invented by Wang Zhihe, a failed scholar from Anhui Province. In 1669, after repeatedly failing the imperial civil examinations, Wang was stranded in Beijing. Short on travel funds and unable to afford further study for the next exam, he was forced to make a living by selling tofu, a craft he learned from his family.
One scorching summer, Wang made a large batch of tofu but could not sell it all out. Fearing the fresh tofu would spoil in the heat, he cut the leftover blocks into small pieces, air-dried them slightly, and pickled them with salt in a small jar to preserve them. He soon forgot about the sealed jar amid his busy life. When he reopened it in autumn, he was greeted by a strong, peculiar odor. To his great surprise, the smelly fermented tofu carried an unexpectedly rich, mellow aroma. Though far from luxurious delicacies, it had a distinctive, lingering flavor that grew more appealing with every bite.
This accidental invention soon gained wide popularity and even royal recognition. In the late autumn and early winter seasons, Empress Dowager Cixi was fond of this special fermented tofu. She included it as a premium side dish in the imperial court, bestowing upon it the elegant official name “Green Square”, inspired by its square form and greenish color.
Stinky tofu is a classic example of a snack with unassuming appearance but extraordinary charm. Its stinky reputation is misleading; hidden beneath the peculiar smell is an unparalleled savory taste and delicate texture. While fried stinky tofu is available across China, the version from Huogong Palace (火宫殿) in Changsha, Hunan Province stands out as the most renowned. It perfectly combines the freshness of tender white tofu and the crisp, aromatic texture of deep-fried snacks, creating an addictive layered taste.
Beyond its culinary value, Changsha’s Huogong Palace stinky tofu also carries special historical significance. In 1922, Mao Zedong and Li Lisan gathered at the iconic snack street of Huogong Palace to discuss organizing the worker strike at Anyuan Coal Mine in Changsha. As they enjoyed bowls of crispy fried stinky tofu, they calmly discussed and finalized the detailed work plan for the strike.
Two bowls of the iconic local delicacy accompanied their in-depth strategic talks. By the time they finished the snack, their work blueprint was fully settled. The two left the place with satisfaction, turning a casual taste of folk street food into a memorable chapter of revolutionary history. For centuries, stinky tofu has transcended its identity as a simple snack, embodying the unique charm of Chinese folk cuisine and bearing precious cultural and historical memories.
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