Alongside Goubuli steamed buns and Guifaxiang fried dough twists, Erduoyan Fried Cake (Earhole Fried Cake, 耳朵眼炸糕) completes the celebrated trio known as the “Three Treasures of Tianjin” . With a history spanning over 130 years, this humble golden-fried cake has earned its place as one of China’s most beloved regional snacks – and it all started with a single pushcart, a clever cook, and a very narrow alley.
The Birth of a Legend
The story begins in 1892, during the reign of the Guangxu Emperor in the late Qing dynasty. A Hui (Muslim) Tianjin native named Liu Wanchun (1874–1962) started selling fried cakes from a hand-pushed cart, wandering the streets and alleys of the city. His cakes were so well-made – using only the finest ingredients and meticulous craftsmanship – that they quickly gained a loyal following. Before long, Liu had saved enough to set up a proper stall on the bustling North Gate Outer Street, selling his cakes fresh on the spot.
With business booming, Liu partnered with his nephew Zhang Kuiyuan and rented a tiny shop – just eight chi (about 2.7 square metres) – large enough for a small storefront. They hung a sign reading “Liu Ji Fried Cake Shop” and began a new chapter.
How It Got Its Curious Name
So why “Earhole Fried Cake”? The shop sat right at the entrance of a tiny, winding alley less than one metre wide – so narrow it was locally known as “Erduoyan Hutong” (Earhole Alley). Customers would say, “Go to that place by Earhole Alley – they have the best fried cakes!” Over time, the nickname stuck. Even though Liu later renamed the shop “Zeng Sheng Cheng”, everyone kept calling it “Erduoyan Fried Cake” – and the name lives on to this day.
What Makes It So Special
Erduoyan Fried Cake is deceptively simple – but getting it right takes generations of skill. The outer shell is made from a blend of glutinous rice and regular rice, which is ground, fermented, and kneaded into a soft dough. The filling is the soul of the cake: red bean paste, made from locally grown vermilion-coloured small red beans, slow-cooked with brown sugar until thick, smooth, and fragrant. Some recipes add a hint of osmanthus flowers for extra aroma.
The cakes are shaped into small, flat rounds and deep-fried in fragrant oil until they turn a perfect golden-brown. The result is a textural masterpiece: a crispy, crackling exterior that gives way to a soft, chewy, and slightly sticky rice layer, all wrapped around a silky, sweet bean paste centre. And here’s the remarkable part – properly made Erduoyan Fried Cakes can stay fresh for up to half a month without losing their quality.
From Street Food to National Treasure
Erduoyan Fried Cake has come a long way from Liu Wanchun’s pushcart. In 1985, it was named a Municipal Quality Food by Tianjin. In 1997, it was recognised as a “China Famous Snack” by the China Cuisine Association. And in 2009, its traditional making techniques were inscribed on Tianjin’s Municipal Intangible Cultural Heritage list. Today, it is an official “China Time-Honoured Brand” – a mark of enduring quality and cultural significance.
Beyond the Classic: A World of Fried Cakes
While the traditional red bean variety remains the gold standard, there’s a whole world of fried cakes to explore. Multi-flavour mini fried cakes – about two-thirds the size of the classic – come in five fillings: red bean, hawthorn, red date, chocolate, and osmanthus.
Then there’s Lu Ji Scald-Flour Fried Cake, created in 1918. Instead of the usual rice dough, this one uses scalded wheat flour, which is easier to chew and digest – making it especially popular with children and the elderly. The fillings come in three classic flavours: red bean, hawthorn, and white sugar. Recognised as a “Tianjin Best Food” and a “China Famous Snack” by the China Cuisine Association, Lu Ji’s version offers a lighter, more delicate alternative to its famous cousin.
Today, the fifth-generation inheritors of Erduoyan are also innovating, introducing new fillings like chocolate, hawthorn, taro with grape, and even expanding into Chinese-style pastries under the Erduoyan brand.
Where to Find It
The original Erduoyan brand now operates multiple locations across Tianjin, such as:
- Erduoyan Fried Cake Shop (Main Store) – 耳朵眼炸糕店（总店）:
No. 32, Datong Commercial Street, Hongqiao District, Tianjin - Erduoyan (Food Street Store 食品街店):
Area 1, No. 16, Nanshi Food Street, Heping District, Tianjin (near Qinghe Street) - Erduoyan (Guhaidao Store 古海道店):
Xinmei Commercial Street, Guhaidao, Hexi District, Tianjin
You’ll also find Erduoyan Fried Cakes at Tianjin’s Ancient Culture Street (Guwenhua Jie，古文化街店), at food stalls throughout the city, and at various time-honoured snack shops. And if you’re exploring beyond Tianjin, the snack is also available in gift packs and at select retailers across China.
So next time you find yourself in Tianjin, do as the locals have done for over a century: order a freshly fried Erduoyan cake, take a bite, and listen for that satisfying crunch. One taste – of the crispy shell, the chewy rice, and the sweet, silky bean paste – and you’ll understand exactly why this “earhole” snack has won the hearts of millions.
Leave a Reply