In the culinary landscape of Hangzhou – a city celebrated for its poetic scenery and refined palate – few dishes capture the imagination quite like Dry-Fried Rings (干炸响铃). With a name that playfully evokes the sound of a bell, this golden, crispy, and irresistibly light dish is one of the most beloved classics of Zhejiang cuisine. It was officially recognised in 1956 as one of Hangzhou’s 36 iconic dishesand was even served at the G20 Hangzhou Summit. But beyond its prestigious accolades, Dry-Fried Rings tell a story of heroism, craftsmanship, and a culinary tradition that has endured for over a millennium.
Why “Rings”? The Story Behind the Name
The dish is made from paper-thin bean curd sheets rolled around a savoury filling, cut into small segments, and deep-fried until golden and puffed. When you bite into one, the sound is unmistakable – a crisp, ringing crunch that echoes like a bell. That satisfying auditory experience is exactly what gave the dish its name: xiangling (响铃), or “ringing bell”.
But the name also carries a deeper legend. According to a popular tale passed down through generations, a heroic figure once frequented a small restaurant in ancient Hangzhou. One day, he arrived with a craving for fried bean curd sheets, only to be told that the kitchen had run out of its special bean curd sheets from Sìxiāng (泗乡) in Fuyang. Unwilling to disappoint his host, the man mounted his horse, galloped all the way to Fuyang, and returned with the precious ingredient. Deeply moved by his dedication, the grateful shop owner prepared the dish with extra care and rolled the bean curd sheets into the shape of a horse’s bell. And so, Dry-Fried Rings were born – and the legend of the gallant horseman has been served alongside the dish ever since.
Another version of the story tells of a big restaurant owner who tried to bully a smaller competitor by sending troublemakers to demand fried bean curd sheets, knowing the small shop was out of stock. A loyal regular came to the rescue, riding to Fuyang to fetch the ingredients. Either way, the spirit of the tale is the same: a dish born from kindness, courage, and a love of good food.
The “Golden Robe” – A Thousand-Year-Old Craft
The secret to Dry-Fried Rings lies in the bean curd sheets themselves. The finest come from Dongwushan Village (东坞山) in Fuyang, a place known as the “hometown of bean curd sheets” in China. This craft has been passed down for over 1,300 years. Made from premium soybeans and pure mountain spring water through an intricate 18-step process, Dongwushan bean curd sheets are celebrated as “thin as a cicada’s wing, oil-bright and glossy, soft yet resilient“. They are so delicate that one kilogram contains as many as 240 sheets.
Historically, these prized sheets were offered as tribute to the imperial courtand supplied to Buddhist temples across the region. Their golden, translucent appearance earned them the poetic name “Golden Robe” – a fitting description for the key ingredient of a dish that looks as magnificent as it tastes.
The Art of the Perfect Fry
Making Dry-Fried Rings is deceptively simple – but getting it right demands precision and experience.
The filling is made from finely minced pork tenderloin, seasoned with Shaoxing wine, salt, and egg yolk. The bean curd sheets are carefully moistened, trimmed of their tough edges, and stacked. The filling is spread evenly across the sheets, which are then rolled into tight cylinders – not too tight, as the rolls need room to expand and become crispy. The rolls are cut into bite-sized segments, about 3.5 centimetres long, and stood upright to maintain their shape.
The frying is the critical moment. The rolls are gently lowered into oil heated to around 130°C and fried until they turn a brilliant golden yellow. The key is to keep the oil at the right temperature and to stir constantly, ensuring even cooking. Too hot, and the outside burns before the inside cooks; too cool, and they become greasy. The finished rolls are crisp, light, and aromatic, with a satisfying crunch in every bite.
How to Enjoy Dry-Fried Rings
Dry-Fried Rings are typically served with a trio of accompaniments: sweet bean sauce for a savoury-sweet contrast, toasted Sichuan peppercorn salt for a fragrant kick, and fresh scallion segments for a crisp, refreshing bite. Each diner can dip according to their own preference, making every bite a personalised experience.
For those who prefer a lighter option, vegetarian versions of the dish – known as Vegetarian Rings – replace the pork filling with ingredients like yam, mushrooms, or carrots, while retaining the same crispy exterior. This innovation reflects Hangzhou’s deep Buddhist culinary traditions and the city’s evolving approach to modern dietary preferences.
A Taste of Hangzhou’s Culinary Soul
Dry-Fried Rings embody the essence of Zhejiang cuisine: freshness, lightness, and precision. The dish may be humble in its ingredients – bean curd sheets and minced pork – but it achieves something extraordinary through skill and care. As the great modern writer Yu Pingbo recalled in his essay on Hangzhou and Beijing cuisine: “As a child, I loved eating them, and I have never forgotten them to this day”.
In 1956, Dry-Fried Rings were officially recognised among the 36 classic dishes of Hangzhou. In 2009, the legendary Louwailou Restaurant, which contributed ten of those 36 dishes, was celebrated for its enduring commitment to this culinary heritage. And in 2016, the dish was proudly featured at the G20 Hangzhou Summit, introducing its crisp, ringing charm to the world.
Where to Find Dry-Fried Rings in Hangzhou
If you’re visiting Hangzhou and want to taste this legendary dish for yourself, here are some of the city’s most celebrated establishments:
- Louwailou Restaurant (楼外楼) – Perched at the foot of Solitary Hill on the northern shore of West Lake, this 178-year-old establishment is the undisputed home of Hangzhou’s classic dishes. Of the 36 dishes recognised in 1956, ten came from Louwailou’s kitchen – including Dry-Fried Rings.
- Tianxiang Lou (天香楼) – A certified “China Time-Honoured Brand” since 2000, this restaurant on Yan’an Road has been serving Dry-Fried Rings alongside other Hangzhou classics for generations.
- Xinxin Hotel (新新饭店) – Located at 56–60 Beishan Street, this historic hotel offers a refined dining experience with Dry-Fried Rings on its menu.
- Hangzhou Restaurant (杭州酒家) – A century-old establishment beloved by locals for its excellent value and authentic flavours.
- Zhiweiguan (知味观) – Another time-honoured name, with various locations across the city including Liangzhu, where Dry-Fried Rings are served as a traditional Hangzhou snack.
For a more casual experience, you’ll also find excellent versions at local favourites like Xinkaiyuan Hotel (新开元大酒店) and 1921 Restaurant along the West Lake. Many smaller eateries throughout the city also serve their own interpretations of this beloved classic.
A Dish That Rings Through Time
Dry-Fried Rings are more than just a snack – they are a taste of Hangzhou’s history, a testament to the skill of its artisans, and a reminder that even the simplest ingredients, when handled with care and creativity, can produce something truly extraordinary. Every crispy bite carries the echo of a gallant horseman, the devotion of a grateful shop owner, and the enduring spirit of a city that has been perfecting its craft for over a thousand years.
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