In the picturesque city of Hangzhou, where green hills meet misty waters and the aroma of tea lingers in the air, one dish stands as a testament to the elegance of Zhejiang cuisine: Longjing shrimp (龙井虾仁) – also known as Dragon Well shrimp. A masterpiece of subtlety, this dish pairs the freshest river shrimp with the most prized green tea in China, creating a harmony of flavours that has captivated diners for over a century. It has been served to emperors and presidents alike – and it all started with a happy accident.
What’s in a Name?
Longjing shrimp takes its name from Longjing (Dragon Well), the legendary tea grown in the hills surrounding Hangzhou’s West Lake. But “Longjing” is more than just a tea – it’s also a village, a temple, and a spring. According to legend, the spring was discovered during the Three Kingdoms period (220–280 AD), its water flowing from a stone cave year-round. During a drought in the Ming dynasty, villagers dug a well at the spring and uncovered a stone shaped like a dragon – hence the name “Dragon Well.” Today, the name carries five meanings: a tea, a village, a temple, a spring, and a dish.
The Imperial Accident
Like many of China’s most beloved dishes, Longjing shrimp owes its existence to the Qianlong Emperor (1711–1799), the Qing dynasty ruler famous for his six southern tours and his passion for fine food.
The most popular version of the story begins on a spring day when the emperor, travelling in disguise, sought shelter from the rain at a tea farmer’s home near the West Lake. The farmer’s daughter welcomed him and brewed a cup of freshly picked Longjing tea. The emperor was so taken by its delicate fragrance and refreshing taste that, before leaving, he quietly pocketed a handful of tea leaves.
Later that day, the emperor stopped at a small restaurant and ordered a meal, including a dish of fried shrimp. He handed the tea leaves to a waiter and asked for them to be brewed. But the waiter caught a glimpse of the imperial yellow robe beneath the emperor’s disguise – and in a panic, rushed to tell the chef. Startled and flustered, the chef mistook the tea leaves for chopped spring onions and threw them into the sizzling wok with the shrimp.
The emperor was about to scold the chef for ruining his tea – but then he took a bite. The shrimp were tender and sweet, infused with the delicate, grassy fragrance of the tea. Far from a mistake, it was a revelation. The emperor praised the dish, and Longjing shrimp was born.
A Poetic Alternative
There is another, more poetic account of the dish’s origins. Some food historians trace its inspiration to a poem by the great Song dynasty poet Su Dongpo (苏轼), who once served as a local official in Hangzhou. In his poem “Dreaming of the South” (Wang Jiangnan), he wrote: “Do not reminisce over the old country with old acquaintances; instead, build a new fire to brew new tea. To enjoy poetry and wine, take advantage of your prime.” The “new tea” refers to the first spring harvest – the very tea used in Longjing shrimp. The poem is said to have inspired a Hangzhou chef to combine freshly picked tea leaves with river shrimp, creating a dish that captured the spirit of the season.
From Humble Beginnings to National Treasure
While the imperial legend is charming, the dish’s documented history is more recent. In the late Qing dynasty, Anhui chefs were already experimenting with cooking river shrimp using fine teas like “Sparrow’s Tongue” (雀舌, queshe) and “Eagle’s Claw” (鹰爪, yingzhua). The food writer Gao Yang, in his book Ancient and Modern Cuisine, noted that the late Qing statesman Weng Tonghe (翁同龢) created a dish of Longjing tea leaves stir-fried with shrimp – a worthy match for the famed “lotus leaf fish.”
By the 1920s, Longjing shrimp had become popular in Hangzhou households. In the 1930s, it appeared in cookbooks from Changshu. In 1956, it was officially recognised among the 36 classic dishes of Hangzhou. And in 1972, when President Richard Nixon visited China, Premier Zhou Enlai hosted a banquet in Hangzhou – and Longjing shrimp was on the menu. In 2018, it was named one of Zhejiang Province’s Ten Classic Dishes.
A Dish of Elegant Simplicity
The beauty of Longjing shrimp lies in its restraint. The dish uses only two main ingredients: fresh river shrimp and Longjing tea leaves – ideally the “pre-Qingming” (mingqian) harvest, picked before the Tomb-Sweeping Festival in early April. These tender young leaves are considered the finest of the year.
The preparation is a test of a chef’s skill. The shrimp are shelled, carefully cleaned until they turn pearly white, and marinated with egg white, salt, and a touch of starch. The tea is brewed briefly in hot water, and both the leaves and a portion of the tea liquor are reserved. The shrimp are then quickly stir-fried in hot oil for just 15 seconds – no more – before the tea leaves and a splash of Shaoxing wine are added. A few quick tosses in the wok, and the dish is ready.
The finished dish is a study in contrasts: the shrimp are jade-white, tender, and succulent; the tea leaves are emerald-green and fragrant; the sauce is clear and light. The flavours are subtle and refined – the sweetness of the shrimp complemented by the grassy, slightly nutty aroma of the tea. As one food writer described it: “The shrimp carries the fragrance of tea; the tea carries the freshness of shrimp.”
A Culinary Philosophy
Longjing shrimp embodies the essence of Zhejiang cuisine: freshness, lightness, and respect for the natural flavour of ingredients. It is a dish that demands the finest materials and the most precise technique – but never overwhelms with heavy sauces or aggressive seasoning. In a culture that prizes the art of tea, this dish represents the ultimate fusion of two great traditions: tea-drinking and fine dining.
Where to Find It
For the definitive Longjing shrimp experience in Hangzhou, head to Louwailou (楼外楼), the legendary restaurant perched at the foot of Solitary Hill on the northern shore of West Lake. Founded in 1848, this 160-year-old establishment has been serving the dish since shortly after its creation. Another celebrated venue is Lianyu Garden Restaurant(莲遇花园餐厅) within the Quyuan Fenghe (曲院风荷, The Qu Garden and Waving Lotus) scenic area. Both are renowned for their masterful execution of this Hangzhou classic.
A Taste of Hangzhou’s Soul
Longjing shrimp is more than just a dish – it is a taste of Hangzhou’s identity. It carries the story of an emperor’s chance discovery, the poetic spirit of a Song dynasty scholar, and the quiet elegance of a city that has perfected the art of subtlety. Every translucent shrimp, every fragrant tea leaf, every delicate bite tells a story of accident and inspiration, of tradition and innovation. It is, in every sense, the taste of Hangzhou itself.
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