If Tianjin’s culinary scene were a royal court, the Guifaxiang 18th Street Fried Dough Twist (桂发祥十八街麻花) would undoubtedly be its emperor. As the undisputed first among the “Three Treasures of Tianjin” – alongside Goubuli steamed buns and Erduoyan fried rice cakes– this golden, crispy snack has been captivating taste buds for nearly a century. With a name that sounds like a mouthful (both literally and figuratively), these twists are far more than a simple street snack: they are a symbol of Tianjin’s culinary heritage, a masterpiece of craftsmanship, and a beloved gift that travels the world.
The Birth of a Legend
The story begins in 1927, on the west bank of Tianjin’s Haihe River. There, a skilled pastry maker named Liu Laoba opened a small fried dough shop. He gave it the auspicious name “Guifaxiang” – a name rich with meaning: “Gui” for the fragrance of osmanthus flowers, “Fa” for striving with determination, and “Xiang” for good fortune and prosperity. Because the shop sat on 18th Street in the Donglou neighbourhood, locals began calling his creation “18th Street Fried Dough Twists” – and the name stuck.
The Accidental Innovation
Liu Laoba’s twists were already popular, but he was never satisfied. He wanted to create something truly special. One day, after returning home tired and hungry from a trip, he found only a few leftover pastry crumbs in the house. On a whim, he mixed those crumbs into his fried dough batter and dropped the mixture into hot oil. The result was unexpectedly light, flaky, and irresistibly crisp. Inspired by this happy accident, Liu Laoba refined the recipe, adding a medley of premium ingredients – osmanthus flowers, Fujian ginger, walnuts, peanuts, sesame seeds, candied fruit, and rock sugar – into a savoury-sweet filling tucked inside the twist. The outcome was nothing short of revolutionary: golden, glossy, fragrant, sweet, and – most remarkably – crunchy even after days of storage.
A Story of Succession
There’s a lesser‑known twist to this tale. According to some accounts, Liu Laoba’s original shop actually closed down in 1920. Two former employees, brothers Fan Guicai and Fan Guilin, took over and reopened the business on 18th Street, keeping the name “Guifaxiang”. It was under their stewardship that the twists truly flourished. In 1956, the two shops merged into what is now the famous Guifaxiang Fried Dough Twist Shop. Today, the brand carries on as a publicly listed company (since 2016) with a modern production facility – but the soul of the craft remains unchanged.
The “Five Perfections”
Locals affectionately describe Guifaxiang twists as possessing “five perfections”: perfect colour, perfect aroma, perfect flavour, perfect shape, and perfect character. Each twist is a small work of art – golden and translucent, with a tight, orderly structure and a filling that stays perfectly in place without leaking.
The Art of Making: 20+ Steps of Handcrafted Precision
What sets Guifaxiang apart is its extraordinary handcrafted process, designated a National Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2014. Master artisans follow over 20 critical steps, using only the finest ingredients: flour, premium vegetable oil, sugar, and a dozen flavourful additions like osmanthus, sesame seeds, and Fujian ginger.
The process is a symphony of traditional techniques: leavening the dough with starter culture, boiling sugar to the perfect syrup, creating a flaky pastry with hot oil, and mixing sugar into the filling. Each twist is formed by hand – rolled, twisted, kneaded, and pinched into shape – with a core of savoury-sweet filling sandwiched between plain and sesame‑studded dough strands. The master’s hands must adjust the recipe based on the weather, the flour’s quality, and even the season. Finally, the twists are fried at precisely the right temperature until they achieve that signature golden-brown colour.
A Modern Classic with Global Reach
From its humble beginnings in a tiny alleyway, Guifaxiang has grown into a national icon. It earned the title of “China Time‑Honoured Brand” in 1996, and its twists have been recognised as “China Famous Snacks” . Today, the brand operates nearly 60 direct‑sale stores across Tianjin, with products exported to countries including Japan and Canada. Visitors can even explore the Guifaxiang Fried Dough Twist Culture Museum – a national AAA tourist attraction – to see the craft up close.
Where to Find Them
The flagship store is located at No. 32 Dongting Road, Hexi District （旗舰店，河西区洞庭路32号）. For a truly authentic experience, simply visit any of its directly-operated stores across the Tianjin city.
And if you can’t make it to Tianjin, don’t worry – the twists are available in gift packs across China and online, making them the perfect edible souvenir.
So next time you find yourself in Tianjin, do as the locals do: pick up a box of these golden, crunchy twists. One bite, and you’ll taste not just the sweet, savoury crispness – but nearly a century of history, ingenuity, and the indomitable spirit of a city that knows how to turn a simple snack into a legend.
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