In the coastal cities of southern Fujian – Quanzhou, Xiamen, and Zhangzhou – few dishes evoke as much nostalgia as the humble oyster omelette. Known locally as ô-á-tsian (蚵仔煎，海蛎煎，蚝仔煎) in the Hokkien dialect, this crispy, golden pancake of plump oysters, eggs, and sweet potato starch is a staple of street food stalls, home kitchens,…