In the bustling streets of Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan Province, one snack reigns supreme. Its name is Long Chaoshou (龙抄手), which translates to “Dragon Wonton.” But don’t let the name fool you – there’s no dragon meat in this dish, and the founder wasn’t surnamed Long either. Instead, this iconic wonton is a masterpiece of simplicity: paper-thin wrappers, tender pork filling, and a broth so rich and flavourful it has earned the dish a place among China’s most celebrated snacks.
What’s in a Bowl of Long Chaoshou?
At first glance, Long Chaoshou looks like any other wonton. But the devil is in the details. The wrapper is made from premium flour, carefully kneaded and rolled until it becomes “thin as paper, fine as silk” – so delicate that it’s nearly translucent. The filling is made from fresh lean pork leg, finely minced and mixed with seasonings to create a tender, smooth, and savoury centre. The broth is where the magic really happens: it’s made by slowly simmering chicken, duck, and pork until it turns white, rich, and deeply aromatic.
When served, the wontons float in the broth like little dumplings, their translucent skins revealing the pinkish filling within. The texture is smooth, silky, and slightly chewy, while the flavour is clean, savoury, and comforting. Depending on your preference, you can enjoy them in a clear broth, a spicy red-oil sauce, or even a creamy milk-based soup.
A Name Born in a Teahouse
Unlike most Chengdu snack shops, which are named after their founders’ surnames, Long Chaoshou has a more poetic origin. The story begins in 1941, when a man named Zhang Guangwu (张光武) and his co-workers in the “Nonghua Teahouse” (浓花茶园) on Chunxi Road (春熙路), discussing plans to open a wonton shop. As they debated what to call their new venture, someone suggested borrowing the character “nong” (浓) from the teahouse’s name – but using its Sichuan dialect homophone “long” (龙), which means “dragon”.
The name carried layers of good fortune: the dragon symbolised power and auspiciousness; “long” also sounded like “long” (隆), meaning “prosperous”; and as the founders put it, “We are descendants of the dragon, and our business will be passed down through generations, forever flourishing“. They also noted that no matter how the wontons were served – in red soup, clear broth, or milk broth – as long as there was water, the dragon would come to life. And so, Long Chaoshou was born, opening its first shop in Yuelai Chang (悦来场), a bustling marketplace in Chengdu.
The Imperial Legend: When the Emperor “Copied His Hands”
While the teahouse origin is historically accurate, there’s a more colourful legend that has been passed down through the generations – one that involves a runaway emperor and a clever chef.
According to the tale, in 880 AD, the Tang dynasty emperor Xizong was forced to flee the capital when the rebel Huang Chao’s army captured Chang’an. The emperor and his entourage escaped to Chengdu, where they took refuge in the Qingyang Temple (青羊肆, now known as Qingyang Palace 青羊宫). Even in exile, the emperor craved the imperial pastries he was used to eating in the palace. But the palace chefs had been left behind, and the local Chengdu chefs didn’t know how to make them.
The chefs put their heads together and decided to create something new. They rolled out thin dough, cut it into small squares, and filled each with a savoury pork mixture. But they needed a special way to fold the dumplings – something worthy of an emperor. As they pondered, one chef noticed the emperor standing outside, gazing at the temple scenery with his hands clasped in front of him – a posture known in Chinese as “chao shou” (抄手), meaning “to cross one’s hands in front”.
Inspired, the chef folded the dough into a diamond shape with the two corners pointing forward, mimicking the emperor’s posture. When the dumplings were presented to Emperor Xizong, he was initially puzzled – he’d never seen dumplings like these before. But the clever chef explained: “We saw Your Majesty admiring the view with your hands clasped, so we copied your posture to wrap the filling. That’s why we call this ‘Dragon Chaoshou’ – the dragon (emperor) with clasped hands“.
A Modern Classic
Long Chaoshou has come a long way since its humble beginnings. In 1995, it was officially recognised as a “China Time-Honoured Brand” (中华老字号) by the Ministry of Domestic Trade. In 2010, its traditional making techniques were inscribed on Chengdu’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list. Today, the brand operates multiple locations across Chengdu, with its flagship store still located on the iconic Chunxi Road(春熙路).
Over the years, Long Chaoshou has expanded beyond wontons. The restaurant now offers a wide range of Sichuan snacks, including glass shumai, Hanyang chicken, pearl dumplings, and sanhe clay. In the 1980s, it pioneered the concept of “snack banquets” – multi-course meals featuring a variety of small dishes – elevating humble street food to the level of fine dining.
Where to Find It
If you’re visiting Chengdu, the best place to taste authentic Long Chaoshou is the flagship store at 8 South Chunxi Road (春熙路南段8号) in the city centre. The wontons are served in several styles: clear broth (the classic), red-oil spicy, seafood, chicken broth, and hot-and-sour. Each offers a different expression of the same impeccable craftsmanship.
A Taste of Chengdu’s Soul
Long Chaoshou is more than just a bowl of wontons – it’s a taste of Chengdu’s history, ingenuity, and love for good food. Whether you believe the teahouse origin story or the imperial legend, one thing is certain: this humble snack has earned its place as one of China’s most beloved dishes. As the locals say: “If you haven’t tried Long Chaoshou, you haven’t really been to Chengdu.”
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