In the misty water towns of China’s Jiangnan region – a land of ancient bridges, winding canals, and time-worn alleyways – there is a humble pink pastry that carries the weight of centuries. Known as Ding Sheng Gao (定胜糕), or “Victory Cake,” this soft, sweet rice cake has been a symbol of hope, courage, and triumph for over 800 years. From Southern Song battlefields to modern-day exam halls, from wedding banquets to the opening day of a new business, this unassuming little cake has one simple message: victory is certain – ding sheng (定胜).
What’s in a Name? A Cake That Promises Victory
At first glance, Ding Sheng Gao is a modest treat – a delicate, pinkish-red cake, shaped like a small ingot or a wooden tenon, with a soft, spongy texture and a sweet red bean paste centre. But its name tells a story far grander than its appearance suggests.
The cake was originally called “Ding Sun Gao” (定榫糕) – “Tenon Cake” – because its shape resembled the wooden tenons used in traditional Chinese joinery. In the local dialect of the Jiangnan region, dingsun (定榫) sounded very similar to dingsheng (定胜), which means “certain victory”. Over time, the name shifted – and with it, the cake’s meaning transformed from a simple description of shape to a powerful declaration of hope.
The Legend: A General, a Secret Message, and a Decisive Victory
The most famous story behind Ding Sheng Gao dates back to the Southern Song dynasty (1127–1279), a time when China was locked in constant struggle against the Jurchen Jin dynasty from the north.
According to legend, in the year 1130, the Jin general Wanyan Wushu (金兀术) led his troops south, capturing Hangzhou (then known as Lin’an) before retreating northward. The Song general Han Shizhong (韩世忠), one of the most celebrated commanders of the era, was stationed in the Songjiang area and prepared to intercept the Jin forces.
As Han’s army prepared for battle, local villagers brought him a gift: a basket of pink rice cakes shaped like tenons. When Han broke one open, he found a hidden slip of paper inside. It read: “The enemy camp is like a tenon – thick at both ends, narrow in the waist. Strike through the middle, and both ends will fall apart.”
Han realised that the villagers had observed the enemy’s formation and were giving him crucial intelligence. The Jin army’s camp was indeed vulnerable at its centre. That night, Han launched a surprise attack, cutting straight through the enemy’s middle and securing a decisive victory.
To honour the villagers’ clever help – and to celebrate the triumph – Han renamed the cake Ding Sheng Gao: “Victory Cake.”
A Cake for Every Occasion
Over the centuries, Ding Sheng Gao’s meaning evolved. By the Ming dynasty (1368–1644), it had become closely associated with the imperial examination system. Students preparing for the gruelling civil service exams would eat Ding Sheng Gao, hoping to carry its “certain victory” into the examination hall. In Wuxi, friends and family would gift aspiring scholars a set of three items: a writing brush, Ding Sheng Gao, and rice dumplings (粽子, zongzi) – together forming the pun bi ding gao zong (笔定糕粽), which sounds like “certain to pass the exams“.
Even today, during China’s national college entrance exams (gaokao), parents across Jiangnan buy Ding Sheng Gao for their children, hoping the cake’s name will carry their sons and daughters to success.
The cake has also become a staple at weddings, housewarmings, birthdays, and business openings – any occasion where one might wish for good fortune and a victorious outcome. In Suzhou, it is said that “whenever there is a celebration, Ding Sheng Gao must be on the table”.
A Taste of History: How It’s Made
Ding Sheng Gao is made from a simple combination of glutinous rice flour (糯米) and long-grain rice flour, mixed with sugar and a natural red colouring from red yeast rice or rose petals. The rice powder is sifted into wooden moulds, filled with sweet red bean paste, and steamed until soft and fluffy.
The traditional mould is shaped like a small ingot or tenon, and each cake is stamped with the characters “定胜” (ding sheng) – “certain victory”. The finished cake is soft, slightly chewy, and delicately sweet, with the earthy aroma of rice and the subtle fragrance of red yeast or rose.
Making Ding Sheng Gao is a labour of love. According to traditional methods, the rice must be ground by stone mill, the rice powder must rest for hours to absorb moisture, and the steaming must be timed to perfection. In 2024, the Ding Sheng Gao making technique was recognised as a county-level intangible cultural heritage item in Shanghang County, Fujian Province.
A Symbol of Resilience – From Ancient Times to Today
Ding Sheng Gao’s story does not end with the Song dynasty. During the War of Resistance against Japan (1937–1945), the cake took on new meaning. Mei Yiqi, the president of National Tsinghua University, and his wife Han Yonghua would serve Ding Sheng Gao to guests, saying: “Please try this ‘Victory Cake’ – we will surely win.” Han Yonghua and other professors’ wives even made the cakes themselves, walking over 40 minutes each week to sell them at a local shop, using the money to support their families while sending a quiet message of hope.
Today, Ding Sheng Gao remains a beloved part of Jiangnan’s culinary heritage. In 2023, the cake gained renewed popularity when it appeared in the hit historical drama Taiping Nian (The Peaceful Years), sparking a craze among viewers eager to taste the “same cake” enjoyed by the show’s protagonist.
Where to Find Ding Sheng Gao
If you’re visiting the Jiangnan region, here are some of the most celebrated places to taste authentic Ding Sheng Gao:
- Hangzhou: The city is home to several time-honoured brands. Zhiweiguan (知味观), founded in 1913, serves freshly made Ding Sheng Gao at its Hubin (West Lake) location. Yang Xiansheng (杨先生糕点) on Xueshi Road offers beautifully packaged versions. And Yixiangzhai (颐香斋), founded in 1875, actually began as a street stall selling Ding Sheng Gao – making it one of the oldest continuous producers of the cake.
- Suzhou: The legendary Huang Tian Yuan (黄天源)糕团店, a time-honoured brand in the city’s Guanqian Street, sells Ding Sheng Gao year-round. Other well-known cake shops like Wan Fu Xing (万福兴) also offer their own versions.
- Nanxun (Huzhou, Zhejiang): The ancient water town of Nanxun is famous for its Ding Sheng Gao, which is shaped like a silver ingot rather than a tenon. The local time-honoured brand Ye Bi Qi (野荸荠) on Dongda Street has been making the cake for generations.
- Kunshan (Jiangsu): In the ancient town of Jinxi, the Hongyun Lou (鸿运楼)糕团店 has been selling Ding Sheng Gao for decades, especially popular during exam season.
A Bite of Hope
Ding Sheng Gao is more than just a cake – it is a vessel for hope. It carries the memory of a general’s clever victory, the prayers of scholars facing life-changing exams, the resilience of a nation at war, and the quiet optimism of families celebrating new beginnings. Every soft, sweet bite is a reminder that, no matter the challenge, victory is possible.
As the old saying goes: “Eat Ding Sheng Gao, and everything will be *ding sheng* – certain to succeed.”
Leave a Reply