In the ancient canal city of Yangzhou, where the Grand Canal meets the Yangtze, there is a dish that looks deceptively simple but demands extraordinary skill. Known as da zhu gan si (大煮干丝) – literally “braised shredded dried tofu” – this delicate creation is one of the crown jewels of Huaiyang cuisine, the elegant cooking style that has graced Chinese state banquets for decades. It’s a dish that transforms humble tofu into a silk‑smooth masterpiece, so refined that it has been called the “litmus test of a Huaiyang chef’s skill”.
From “Nine‑Ingredient Soup” to Imperial Favourite
The story begins in the Qing dynasty, during the reign of the Qianlong Emperor (1735–1796). Known for his six grand tours of southern China, the emperor made a stop in Yangzhou, where local officials – eager to impress – assembled the city’s finest chefs to create an unforgettable feast.
Among the dishes presented was a luxurious soup called “Nine‑Ingredient Soup” (jiu si tang). True to its name, it featured nine kinds of ingredients cut into delicate shreds: chicken, bamboo shoots, ham, wood ear mushrooms, dried mushrooms, silverfish, seaweed, egg crepe, and – crucially – dried tofu. Sometimes, chefs would add sea cucumber, dried razor clam, or even bird’s nest to elevate the dish further.
The emperor was so delighted that he reportedly devoured two plates of the soup and declared it a must‑have on every subsequent visit to Yangzhou.
But over time, Huaiyang chefs realised that the original soup – with its nine competing ingredients – strayed from the region’s culinary philosophy: letting the natural flavour of each ingredient shine through simplicity. So they refined the dish, gradually shifting the focus to the star ingredient: the tofu itself. The “Nine‑Ingredient Soup” evolved into today’s Braised Shredded Tofu – a dish that embodies the Huaiyang ideal of “transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary”.
The Art of the Blade
What makes this dish so remarkable is not its ingredients – but what the chef does with them.
The tofu used is a special variety known as “square dried tofu” (fang dougan), a firm, dense block about three inches square and just over half an inch thick. It must be cut into paper‑thin slices – no thicker than 0.05 centimetres – and then into matchstick‑fine shreds. In fact, master chefs are expected to slice a single block of tofu into 24 uniform sheets before cutting them into shreds no thicker than a matchstick.
“That means each piece of dried tofu is cut into 1,000 to 2,000 shreds,” explains Jiang Zhujun, a 95‑year‑old Huaiyang chef who has appeared on national television to demonstrate the technique. The result is a mound of tofu shreds so fine and delicate that they look like a cloud of white silk.
The Three‑Step Transformation
But fine cutting alone isn’t enough. The shreds must be cooked through a meticulous three‑step process to achieve their signature texture:
- First boiling – the shreds are blanched in boiling water to remove any raw bean flavour.
- Second boiling – they are simmered in a light broth to begin absorbing savoury flavours.
- Third simmering – they are gently braised in rich chicken stock, allowing the broth to penetrate every strand.
The phrase “da zhu” (big braise) refers not to the quantity of ingredients but to this multi‑step cooking method. The result is tofu shreds that are soft yet resilient, silky yet chewy – fully infused with the umami of chicken, ham, and shrimp.
A Dish for All Seasons
While the core technique remains constant, the accompaniments change with the seasons. In spring, you might find bamboo shoots and fresh peas; in autumn, crab roe and river shrimp; in winter, dried scallops and preserved ham. The dish is always finished with a garnish of vibrant green pea shoots, pink ham shreds, and plump shrimp – creating a composition of colours as beautiful as the flavours are delicate.
More Than Just Food – A Cultural Treasure
In 2008, the shredded tofu making technique was officially inscribed on Yangzhou’s Municipal Intangible Cultural Heritage list. In 2018, Braised Shredded Tofu was named one of Jiangsu Province’s Top Ten Classic Dishes.
Today, the dish has travelled far beyond Yangzhou. One local company – Weiyang Bean Products – has introduced flash‑freezing technology that extends the shelf life of shredded tofu to a full year, allowing the dish to be exported to Europe, Southeast Asia, and beyond. The company’s very first export product was Braised Shredded Tofu.
And when the National People’s Congress and Chinese People’s Political Consultative Conference convene in Beijing each year, Yangzhou’s master chefs have been known to air‑freight fresh “square dried tofu” to the capital, preparing this beloved dish for delegates from across the country.
Where to Taste It in Yangzhou
If you’re visiting Yangzhou, you’ll find Braised Shredded Tofu (大煮干丝) on the menu of almost every serious Huaiyang restaurant. Here are a few time‑honoured establishments to look for:
- Fuchun Tea House (富春茶社) – Founded in 1885, this century‑old tea house is legendary for its Huaiyang dim sum and classic dishes, including a superb version of braised shredded tofu.
- Shizilou (狮子楼) – A long‑standing Yangzhou favourite known for its authentic Huaiyang cooking, with multiple locations including one on Dongguan Street.
- Fumanlou (福满楼) – A well‑regarded old‑brand restaurant at the Siwangting Road intersection on Wenhe Road, where the dish has been served for decades.
- Yechun Tea House (冶春茶社) – Another historic tea house with a beautiful waterside setting, often praised for its refined take on Huaiyang classics.
- Shengdong 1996 (生东1996) – A newer name with over 20 years of history, offering a modern interpretation of traditional Huaiyang flavours.
The Perfect Bite
When you take your first mouthful of Braised Shredded Tofu, you’ll understand why it has been called “non‑soup, non‑dish” – something between a soup and a stew. The shreds are impossibly fine, yet they hold their shape; they’re soft, yet each strand has a gentle bite. The broth is clear and golden, carrying the deep savouriness of chicken and ham without being heavy. And the garnish of fresh shrimp and pea shoots adds brightness and texture.
For over two centuries, this dish has been the pride of Yangzhou – a testament to the idea that the best cooking isn’t about rare ingredients or complex flavours, but about taking something simple and treating it with extraordinary care. As the old Huaiyang saying goes: “The finest dish is one that makes you forget what you’re eating – and remember only how it makes you feel.”
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