When foreign guests visit Beijing, their Chinese hosts almost always arrange a Peking duck feast (北京烤鸭, Roast Duck Feast). It’s more than just a meal – it’s a ritual of hospitality. As a witty saying goes among European diplomats: “Things are discussed and fixed during meals, which dominate people’s affairs.” And indeed, fine food tempts not only ordinary folk but also the officials and merchants. There’s a popular rhyme every tourist in Beijing soon learns: “You’re not a true hero until you’ve climbed the Great Wall; you’ve truly missed out if you haven’t tried Peking duck.”
Two Legendary Houses, Two Traditions
Beijing boasts several renowned duck restaurants, such as Quanjude (全聚德), Bianyifang (便宜坊), Dadong (大董), and Dayali(大鸭梨). Among them, Bianyifang and Quanjude are the two century-old giants, each representing a distinct school of roasting.
- Bianyifang (便宜坊, founded in 1855) uses the closed-oven method. The ducks are cooked without direct contact with flame – instead, they’re slowly roasted by the heat of charcoal and the hot oven walls. Before going in, the duck is coated with a secret marinade, so that while the skin crisps up, the meat gently steams and tenderizes from within.
- Quanjude (全聚德, founded in 1864, and arguably more famous worldwide) takes the open-hanging approach. The ducks are suspended in a oven and roasted over a live fire burning fruitwood. The chef skillfully turns the ducks with a long pole to ensure even heat distribution. The whole process takes about 40 minutes.
The Perfect Finish: Color, Crisp, and Carving
When done right, the duck turns a glossy, mahogany red. The skin shatters at the lightest bite, while the meat remains succulent and tender – irresistible to anyone, from first-time tourists to heads of state. In fact, many foreign leaders visiting China have made it a point to schedule a Peking duck dinner.
But the experience doesn’t end at the oven. Watching a master carve the duck is a cultural show in itself. Unlike a roast chicken, you don’t tear it apart by hand. A common debate among diners: should the skin and meat be sliced together or separately? Purists insist on separate slicing, because the very soul of Peking duck lies in the contrast – crispy skin and velvety meat. Eating them together blurs that magic; eating them apart lets you savor each texture in perfect harmony.
Serving Tips and Creative Twists
In winter, the platter of sliced duck should never be served cold – some top restaurants now place a small alcohol burner under the plate to keep it gently warm, a trick well worth copying. As for the slice count, a skillfully carved duck typically yields over 90 thin pieces.
The classic accompaniments are thin pancakes (lotus-leaf wraps), scallion strips, cucumber sticks, and sweet bean sauce. But innovative chefs have added fresh cantaloupe sticks, sesame paste, and even white sugar. Wrapping these together with the duck brings a refreshing, lightly sweet note that brightens every bite.
So next time you’re in Beijing, do as the locals do: gather around the table, roll up your own perfect morsel, and taste a piece of history. One bite, and you’ll understand why this dish has conquered the world – one palate at a time.
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